[Sonar] Thanks everyone who helped

Thu May 4 11:32:20 CDT 2006

This is a surprise to me too.  Maybe the club should buy the buoys that let
you carry the block chain up through a tube in the center.

Mark

On 5/4/06, Thomas_M_Brown at bluecrossmn.com <Thomas_M_Brown at bluecrossmn.com>
wrote:
>
> I found a reference about the buoy ring....I was surprised.
>
> If you look at the 2005 West Marine catalog,  page 750 it states about the
> ring buoy:
>
> "The pennant from the boat attaches to the mooring chain under the buoy,
> never to the top ring"
>
> I interpret from this that not only should the pennant not be hooked to
> the top of the buoy,   but also that the pennant should be attached
> directly to the anchor chain and not to the buoy ring.
>
> On our buoy,    the anchor chain was attached to the lower buoy ring,  and
> the pennant was also attached to the same ring.   The weak point of the
> whole system then was the lower buoy ring.  I think that's what the West
> warning is about.    If the West Marine statement is accurate  (and they
> seem to be emphatic about it since it is right in the purchase blurb) then
> the pennant and anchor chain should be connected as one contiguous unit
> and the buoy should not be part of the energy transfer function at
> all....just attached separately.
>
> It seems subtle,  but all it takes is some adverse repeated movement to
> cause chafing,   even of steel,  to cause a failure of the whole system
> over time.
>
> I think its worth asking an expert from the buoy company.
>
> Thomas Brown
> "Maximizing Business by Minimizing Surprises"
>
>
>
> "Mark Kochendorfer" <markoch at gmail.com>
> Sent by: sonar-bounces at lists.wyc.org
> 05/04/2006 09:51 AM
>
> To
> "Thomas_M_Brown at bluecrossmn.com" <Thomas_M_Brown at bluecrossmn.com>
> cc
> sonar at lists.wyc.org
> Subject
> Re: [Sonar] Thanks everyone who helped
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Glad to help and glad there was no major damage.
>
> I am quite concerned about my boat as well.  I can inspect the visible
> parts of the buoy system, but only the club staff can lift the mooring up
> and verify that it all is sound down to the block.  When I spoke with
> Steve Bren it sounded like my buoy at least had been inspected.  I wonder
> how this was missed on yours.  It seems like moorings break or move more
> often than they should.  What is the maintenance program?
>
> I had always understood that the top ring should be used to moor the
> boats.  The reason for this is that under heavy load the buoy gets
> submerged by the load pulling on the top ring down through the block. This
> acts as another shock absorber and also kind of a reverse sentinel.  If
> you moor to the bottom of the float you will not get this effect.
>
> So my recommendation is to always moor to the top ring and run a safety
> line from the top ring down to the chain (or block if you can get there).
> There is less chafe and rot on your mooring line this way too.
>
> Mark
> Liberty
>
> On 5/4/06, Thomas_M_Brown at bluecrossmn.com < Thomas_M_Brown at bluecrossmn.com
> > wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who helped get Tally Ho! off of the beach after
> breaking from her mooring.
>
>
> The lower buoy ring gave way yesterday and the boat drifted to essentially
> the only sandy area in the whole bay.   We were lucky.   Very little and
> superficial damage seems to be evident.   The funny thing is, is that I
> had checked the bouy ring the night before and was worried about it and
> was on my way to the boat Wednesday with reinforcement when Ernie called
> me and said that the boat had come loose.    Wouldn't you know,   it gives
>
> way right at the time that we were thinking about it.
>
> Those of you on moorings should really check the lower ring of the bouy to
> see how much it has worn.    Mine was almost paper thin when I checked it
> Tuesday night.    Its also can wear at the shackle to the weight itself at
>
> the lower end,  but more slowly.   Both should be checked.  Most of these
> shackles are made with hot dipped galvanized low carbon steel which wears
> pretty quickly when compared to stainless.
>
> The other thing that is important about bouys that I've seen at the club
> is that its important to connect the pennant to the bottom ring of the
> bouy...never the top.     The top ring is purely for pickup purposes.  Its
> my opinion that some of the increased wear on the lower ring on the bouy I
>
> was on was caused by the pivot tipping of the bouy caused by the pennant
> attached at the top,  which slowly but surely wore away the bottom ring.
>
> At Falmouth Forside (ME) we used a different bouy type that allowed the
> chain to go completely through the bouy, had a large D ring at top (for
> pickup only)  and had a special collar at both ends  that eliminated this
> wear on the lower 'ring'.      The pennant was anchor shackled to the
> chain underneath the mooring bouy and a pennant was fold over hitched to
> give a double pennant which was then attached all the way to the mast
> (both of them).    If the harbor master didn't see that you had this
> double pennant,  or if you had a pennant to the top part of the bouy, you
> usually got a little lecture on the trip in from the boat on the tender
> (we had ferry service tender there rather than canoes etc.).     There,
> the bouy fields were so large that most of the $$ damage from a loose boat
> was not from the boat itself,   but all the boats that it hit  as it
> drifted out of the bouy field.   They were pretty sensitive to drifting
> boats.   Marblehead (Eastern YC) has a really famous story about this and
> Courageous,  the old 12 meter.
>
> I would just hate to see this happen to another boat when it could be
> prevented....and also we were VERY lucky...it wasn't in a bad storm with a
>
> lot of waves,  our mast didn't get damaged in any low hanging trees,  and
> the wind direction was perfect to have the boat drift to the only sandy
> area in the whole bay.
>
>
>
> Thomas Brown
> "Maximizing Business by Minimizing Surprises"
>
>
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--
Mark
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