[Sonar] Split Traveller
Mark Kochendorfer
markoch at gmail.com
Tue Feb 20 11:06:10 CST 2007
You can switch to 3:1 in light air by just disconnecting the end of the
sheet from the block and then putting a stopper knot in it. In heavier air
you need a lot of strength or else put the end back for more leverage.
Kevlar works fine. I used Amsteel. Perhaps it will get frayed after 4-5
seasons. Not that easy to adjust with a knot since it does not knot that
well and it the knot tends to become permanent after a while. Its pretty
cheap for the small amount required.
While in Geneva, I saw some pretty nice setups for the cleating of the
traveler (split or not). The one that I liked the best was a 3inch piece of
aluminum angle with the cleat on it for cleating from the opposite rail and
a second cleat on the cockpit side for same side cleating.
Let me know if you need a photo.
Mark
On 2/19/07, Henry Brantingham <hbrantingham at isp.com> wrote:
>
> Sailors:
>
>
>
> I'm planning to install a split traveler system on Balderdash! this
> spring. I have the article that Shepstone distributed during his last
> visit, so I think I pretty much know how to proceed, but I have a couple of
> questions that I though maybe you who have sailed with it already may be
> able to comment on:
>
> 1. The article recommends cutting back to a 3:1 main sheet. Is this
> a good idea? Do any of you have that now?
> 2. Wire vs Kevlar: Seems Kevlar would be easy, but I'm not sure I
> trust it. The article recommends it because you can adjust the length. Any
> comments?
> 3. Any other details I haven't thought to ask about?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance for your comments.
>
>
>
>
>
> Henry Brantingham
>
> (612) 867-3941
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Sonar mailing list
> Sonar at lists.wyc.org
> http://lists.wyc.org/mailman/listinfo/sonar
>
--
Mark
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